Welcome, foolish mortals. We’re going to be trapping the soul of a ghost for today’s project. If you couldn’t get your hands on a Haunted Mansion Spirit Jar, now is your chance to create your own! It doesn’t light up like the originals, but it is just as spooky and easy enough to make. Here’s what you’ll need:
Begin by squeezing in some of your Color Shifting Paint into the Apothecary Bottle.
Swirl around the paint in the bottle. Don’t cover the entire thing yet!
Squeeze your Black Metallic Paint into the bottle.
And swirl that around, too.
Keep adding paint, alternating between the color shifting one and the metallic one, and swirl your bottle around so there aren’t any gaps.
Pour out excess paint into a disposable cup. This takes a while, but you could also just empty it over the trash, into another bottle to use later, or simply don’t pour it out at all.
Your bottle may look different from the one in the photo. It all depends on how much paintyou add and frequency you add them.
Let the paint settle for a while. The paint will flow in the direction of gravity, so be aware of how you let the bottle sit and know that the final result may look different.
See how the black paint has some odd vertical spots? That’s from letting it sit for an hour or so.
Repeat as necessary to fill all empty spots.I ended up with one more round of adding paint.
To make your Spirit Jar look authentic, print out the label on sticker paper, cut, and apply to your bottle. I will provide what I created for my jars including a Madame Leota label and labels for bottle necks.
In exchange, please like this blog post, follow us on Instagram and Pinterest, and share with your Disney DIY loving friends and family. Thank you!!
Finally, wrap your Chain around the bottle neck and tie it. Cut off the excess with a wire cutter.
You Made It!
How delightfully ghoulish! Which spirit did you capture? I made a jar for both the Hatbox Ghost and Madame Leota. They are essential to the Haunted Mansion. Speaking of which, this project was to celebrate the 51st anniversary of the Haunted Mansion at Disneyland! It’s time for a swinging wake!
Thank you to everybody who made it down here. Please follow us on Instagram for more projects like this and photos from the park. Don’t forget, we have a Pinterest so pin away! Be sure to share with your Disney loving friends and family, too! We’d really appreciate it!
All images on this website were taken by and belong to Main Street D.I.Y. If you wish to share an image, please give credit where credit is due!Send the people our way!
Why, hello there! This project is fun and easy for the whole family that is inspired by the laziest lump of fluff we all know and love: Winnie the Pooh. You’ll be creating your own honey–or “hunny”–pot filled to the brim with that sticky yellow goodness. Let’s see what you’ll need:
Supplies List:
Tools List:
Terracotta Pot
Medium Sized Paint Brush
Purple Outdoor Paint
Liner Paint Brush or White Paint Pen
Saffron Yellow Outdoor Paint
Large Paint Brush
White Acrylic Paint
Disposable Cup
Rocks (for drainage- if the pot doesn’t have a hole at the bottom)
Painter’s Tape
Instructions
Place your Terracotta Pot onto a bit of cardboard or a paper bag.
Mix together the White Paint with the Purple Outdoor Paint in a separate cup to create a lighter purple color.
Paint the entire outside of your pot excluding the bottom. Try to brush horizontally along the pot with the grain.
Let it dry and apply a second coat if you wish.
Once dry, Use some painter’s tape and place the top edge of the tape about 2 inches from the bottom of the pot. Try to make a straight line with that top edge of the tape all the way around the pot.
Use the purple outdoor paint (not the light one you mixed) and paint a big thick band around the pot.
You can use a large rubber band that fits snuggly to the pot to create a straight top line, but I just went for it.
Let it dry.
Grab your Saffron Yellow Outdoor Paint and start painting drips of honey on the top edge of your pot. You can draw little swoops and squiggles and fill them in with the paint. Paint them in different sizes and add long drips to make it more believable.
I wouldn’t recommend the brand of paint I used for the honey. It was very sheer and I had to layer it about 4 times.
Let it dry before adding more coats–if necessary. Also, paint the first couple inches inside the pot with the yellow as well.
Use a Liner brush (a brush that is thin and long) to write out the letters: ‘H’ ‘U’ ‘N’ ‘N’ ‘Y’ with the first ‘N’ written backwards in white paint.
Use that same brush to add little highlights to the dripping honey. Choose one side of the drips so it looks like light is coming from the same direction.
Lastly, if your pot doesn’t have a drainage hole, add some rocks to the bottom before planting!
You Made It!
Wow, that was great, everyone! I hope you enjoyed this little craft. I’m sure yours is absolutely adorable! I think it’s perfect for any Disney lover’s garden. The plant I chose to put in my pot is called a Paula Rhodoxis. It has these pretty pink star-shaped flowers and the leaves almost look like cat nip.
Thanks to those who made it this far! Please follow us on Instagram and Pinterest for more projects like this and photos from the Disneyland Resort. We’d also really appreciate it if you’d share our DIYs with your Disney and crafting friends!
All images on this website were taken by and belong to Main Street D.I.Y. If you wish to share an image, please give credit where credit is due!Send the people our way!
Aloha! Welcome! Today we are creating a tropical birdhouse for our macaw hosts Jose, Michael, Pierre, and Fritz. We’ll be singing like the birdies so grab your pineapple whip and let’s get started! Here’s what you’ll need:
We’re going to start with decorating the roof with these tear-drop shaped wooden pieces. The pattern goes like this:
Layer 1: 5 small
Layer 2: 3 small
Layer 3: 3 medium
Layer 4: 3 medium
Layer 5: 3 large
If you want, paint the wood before gluing the feathers.I would if I did this again, but that’s what I get for making decisions on the spot.
Spread out your pieces in order of your layers and start painting!
I tried to match the colors to the hosts of the Enchanted Tiki Room so thecolors would be more cohesive in the end.I also made sure to have 2 green, 2 yellow, and 2 blue layer 1s.
Start hot glueing layer 1 to the bottom of the roof, letting a little overhang,
Follow that with layer 2 in the center of the 5 layer 1 feathers.
Layer 3 on top of that with the center feather angled towards one side so it covers a gap.
Layer 4 is the same with the center feather angled the other way covering the other gap. This will make you lower that center feather. It’s all good, though.
Top it all off with layer 5. The center feather goes down first. Nestle it under the topper and glue the other two pieces on top. Don’t let the feathers go too much over the edges or else the other sides won’t fit.
Repeat the process for the other roof sides.
Ta-da!
A Couple Details
Grab some Tacky Glue and your Wooden Matchsticks. We’re making a little deck for our birdhouse. This part is optional if you don’t want to spend more time than necessary.
Layer your matchsticks so that two sides meet at one corner of your birdhouse forming an arrow. It will leave 3 alternating corners open–which we’ll fill later.
Finish your topper by glueing around some twine. You can use tacky glue or hot glue.
Rooftop Pizzazz
Mix together some brown paint and finish your roof. I wish I had done this before glueing the feathers down.
We’re also painting about a half inch onto the birdhouse sides.
As you let your roof dry, cut pieces of twine. Each corner will get a center string and two strings folded in half.
Glue your twin to the corners with a single cut string in the center and a folded string on each side.
Cut off the excess.
Take your twine and line the outside edge of the roof.
Then, wrap and glue twine around the top of the sides of the birdhouse. 3 times should do.
The Birds Sing Words
I outlined some existing art of the macaws and have a printout for you to download if you wish. They are each 2″x 3″.
Trace around the bird in the center of 4 out of 6 sides.
I left the front and back panels blank (for now) and drew on the remaining sides.
Flip over the printouts and use a soft pencil to trace the lines from the other side. You should be able to see them. If not, place it over a window. Really layer on the graphite.
Put the printout back on your panel and trace the lines on the top of the printout so the graphite on the back rubs off onto the side panel. Like a carbon copy.
Repeat for the other three sides.
Paint Time
Mix together some black, blue, and green paint for the background. Do not mix it thoroughly so you’ll be able to get some variation as your paint.
I added some streaks of blue and yellow-green on top of my background to give it more interest.
Paint your macaws with their respective colors! Everyone gets a tan chest, white faces, and dark versions of their head feathers for the dots on their cheeks and the streak on their faces.
Red head, tan cheeks and brow, and yellow under feathers for Fritz.
Green head, white cheeks and brow, and yellow under feathers for Michael.
Blue head, white cheeks and brow, and red under feathers for Pierre.
Red head, yellow cheeks and brow, and green under feathers for Jose.
I finished the back panel with a pineapple whip.Yum!
Use a black colored pencil to flesh out some details once everything is dry.
Paint the deck with brown. Again, use a loose mix of dark and light brown so you get a “wood grain” appearance.
Paint the bottom of the birdhouse the same way. Be sure to paint in the direction of the wood grain. If you can’t, just make sure it’s all in the same direction.
Grab 3 little oval wood pieces and paint those a light brown. Glue themdown where there were gaps in the deck once they’re dry.
Horticulture
Take a bunch of large and medium sized oval wood pieces and paint them half light, half dark green.
Once dry, take a dark green colored pencil and draw a line down the middle of each oval. Follow that up with some curving lines to create leaves!
Take a bunch of medium circles and paint them in yellows, pinks, and purples.
Add thin green stripes like spokes on a wheel.
Finish up the medium circles with flowers in the middle.
Paint the large circles a purpley brown.
Top those with different colored flowers like blue, pink, yellow, and purple. The tips of these flowers should be different, even contrasting, colors.
Paint the small circles solid red and yellow.
Adorn your Birdhouse
Arrange and glue down your flowers and leaves onto the birdhouse.
You can start with minimal decoration and then add on if necessary.
It doesn’t matter where the pieces are placed as long as they don’t block the macaws’ faces. I wanted to cover the bottoms of their portraits which also hid some areas I missed while painting.
Clean up all of the hot glue strings when everything is set!
Lastly, paint the little dowel perch on the front of the birdhouse.
You Did It!
Amazing job, friends! I love this birdhouse. It might be my favorite project so far! I’m excited to see if any real birds will like it… if not, I’ll definitely enjoy looking at it in my backyard.
Thanks to everyone who made it all the way down here! Please be sure to follow us on Instagram and Pinterest for more projects like this and photos from the Disneyland Resort. Share with your Disney DIY loving friends and family! We’d really appreciate it!!
All images on this website were taken by and belong to Main Street D.I.Y. If you wish to share an image, please give credit where credit is due!Send the people our way!
Hello, y’all! This terrarium is inspired by favorite restaurant in New Orleans Square: Cafe Orleans! You read that right, not Blue Bayou. Cafe Orleans. They have pomme frites, monte cristos, and they used to have the most delicious sausage gumbo! And if you’re lucky you can watch Fantasmic from the outside dining area after dinner.
Originally, I was planning on putting a lot of plants in this terrarium–you’ll see in the supplies photo– but I ended up using just one faux plant. It made things simpler and I think it really worked out.
This projects is a level 3 because we’re going to be painting, HOWEVER!! You can make it as a level 1 by printing out a photo of New Orleans Square!
Grab a piece of Watercolor Paper and lay it underneath your terrarium. Outline it with a pencil. Depending on the shape of your terrarium, you might want to do more than two paintings.
Have some references at the ready!I chose to paint the blue building for the inside of my terrarium and the tan building for the backside.
Start lightly sketching out your building with a pencil. Use a ruler to keep things straight and symmetrical.
The blue building has a circular window at the top, columns on the sides, and symmetrical windows so everything you do on one side, you’ll draw the same of the other.
Because the 1st and 2nd level windows line up, I drew guidelines all the way down the front facade.
The tricky part were the rounded shutters on the 1st level’s windows. The highest point of the curve–which is the outside edge–lined up with the highest point of the rounded window. Drawing a horizontal guideline there will help keep everything even.
The railing is simple enough. The 2nd floor is just vertical spindles, the 1st floor is made of X’s.
A box in the middle is for the name of the restaurant. Little drapes flow on the bottom. Erase where needed.
Start off bybrushing your paper with water where you want the paint to flow. Add more paint to the places there are shadows like under the trimming, the inside parts next to the columns, and underneath the 2nd floor windows.
Don’t add too much paint and water at once. Let it dry and you can layer up the color for a deeper appearance. Remember, wherever it is wet, the color will flow.
Use different shades of green to create the potted plants on the balconies.
Go in with relevant colored pencils to amp up the detail and deepen shadows. I also painted some blue in the windows (on dry paper) and went in with a grey colored pencil and drew a line on the left and bottom edges of each little window to create some dimension.
Finally, use a white gel pen to clean up the white parts if necessary.
Go ahead and sketch the other facade using another piece of watercolor paper. This one is also symmetrical! Erase where needed.
The corner pieces of the balcony and the railing are left blank because I’ll bedrawing in the detail with a colored pencil after everything is dry.
Paint the same way you did earlier. Watercolor is all about many thin layers so take your time! Use colored pencils after it’s dry to define details.
If you’re not up for the painting, you can always print out a photo of your favorite building in New Orleans Square and use that as your background instead!
Assembly
Cut your watercolor pieces to fit inside the terrarium. You should have one facing outside and one facing inside. I tried gluing my pieces together so they’d lay flush, but it didn’t work that well. The paper was too strong! I’d suggest you try to flatten them out under something heavy before continuing.
Take a handful of Moss and stuff it on the bottom of your terrarium,
Add some smaller Vase Filler rocks and top those with larger black Pebbles.
Cut apart a couple Magnolia flowers from their stem and stick them into the pebbles.
Lastly, pop in your Miniature Table and Chairs.
You can glue the dining pieces to some pebbles if you want more stability. They can end up toppled over otherwise. But, that’s it!!
You Made It!
Amazing job, everyone! I would love to see what kind of terrariums you guys came up with. Each can be so unique especially with the variety of terrariums out there. I really liked this house shape from Michaels. It sparked the idea in the first place! New Orleans Square is my favorite land in Disneyland and I just love the atmosphere and delicious food of Cafe Orleans. I hope you enjoyed this project!
Thank you for making it all the way down here. Please follow us on Instagram and Pinterest for more projects like this and pictures from the parks! Share with your Disney DIY loving friends and family, too. We’d really appreciate it! See you all next time!
All images on this website were taken by and belong to Main Street D.I.Y. If you wish to share an image, please give credit where credit is due!Send the people our way!
Welcome! This week’s project is inspired by the hanging lights found in Adventureland’s Topical Hideaway at the Disneyland Resort! It’s the newest eatery at Adventureland and they sell the best treat on earth: Dole Whip. The ambiance is also very relaxing and the area features some fun hanging lights that I wanted to recreate so I can get that Tropical Hideaway feeling at home! Here’s what you’ll need:
First, take your Floral Wire. Measure and cut four 14 inch lengths.
Prepare your Floral Hoop.
Bend about 1.5″ of each of the lengths of floral wire and wrap around the floral hoop. These will be your base wires.
After bending the wire, I looped it around itself before wrapping the rest around the hoop.
Measure and cut 12 inches of the floral wire.
Shape the wire into a circle that has exactly two loops.
At the top of your base wires, measure 1.5 inches and bend it outward around the double-looped circle.
Wrap the excess and repeat with the other base wires.
At this point, you can mold the base wires into your lamp shape. To support the lamp, we’ll be using Wooden Dowels.
A little above the half-way point in your structure, measure and cut the dowels to size. We’ll be fixing them perpendicularly. The dowels don’t have to touch, but they should be close.
You can cut them however you like. I cut them by rolling the dowel in a scissor and then snapping the pieces apart.
Tape one side of a dowel to one of the base wires to keep it in place.
Use your Craft Wire to secure the other side to the base wire.
Repeat with the other side and the other dowel.
Don’t worry if the dowel slips out of your craft wire, we’ll be securing it with twine later.
Take another, smaller piece of wooden dowel and shove it in between the layers of your circle. The wire should be flexible enough for you to do this. Crimp the wire around the sides of your dowel.
To complete the structure, use the floral wire and wrap around the diameter of your lamp about 4-5 inches from the bottom, wrapping at each base wire.
Wrap another ring towards the top of the lamp, above your perpendicular dowels.
It isn’t pretty…yet!
Base: Part 1
Grab your twine and wrap tight coils around every piece of hoop and wire, Hot Gluing where necessary-like the joints. Don’t forget to wrap where your dowels meet the wire!
When you’re done, grab some twine, wrap a piece around the short dowel a few times and make a loop at the top of the lamp. This will let us hang our light. It isn’t pictured here, but you’ll see later.
Base: Part 2
Grab a roll of Burlap and drape it over one side of your structure.
Shove in one side into the small circle on the top, wrap under and glue in place.
Wrap the bottom of the piece around the floral hoop and glue in place on the inside of the lamp.
Glue to the skeleton and the burlap for a secure fit.
Do this on the opposite side with the same (or different depending on your design) piece of burlap.
For the other piece of burlap, cut a slit so that it fits around the short wooden dowel in the wire circle.
Glue the edges in place like before and repeat the process on the opposite side. Again, if you wish to use different types of burlap for each side or what have you, GO FOR IT! 🙂
Weave some burlap under the other pieces of burlap and over the base wire. This is to cover the bottom portion of our light.
Hot glue the bottom edge to the floral hoop. Leave some space near the base wire. We’re going to need that space soon.
The picture (right) shows the lamp upside down, by the way.
Decorations
Cut 8 strips of Raffia Ribbon and fold them in half over a piece of twine.
Take a another piece of twine and tie the top together to create a tassel.
Use the first piece of twine to attach the tassel to the floral hoop next to the base wire. To make the tassel swing, tie the knot with some space away from the tassel itself.
Repeat 3 more times for each base wire.
Loosely braid raffia ribbon. I used a four strand braid with one being a piece of twine.
Glue the braid to the outside of the lamp at the height of the horizontal burlap piece. This gives it a more finished, blocked out look.
Braid 4 more raffia ribbon braids. They will be the length from the top of the lamp to your 4-strand braid. Glue in place.
Leave some raffia ribbon out at the bottom of the braids to act as tassels.
Take your wired ribbon and cut 6 pieces about 3 inches long.This is my pop of color. You may want to use something different that fits your light!
Squish the top together and tie in place with twine.
Glue to the top of the lamp.
Cut a length of craft wire and string on your wooden beads and shell beads in the order you like. Loop the wire thru the last bead to secure it on each side. Mine was around 2 inches in diameter when done. The large shell beads are 1-1.5 inches long.
Wrap around the base wire where the wooden dowels meet and let it dangle. Cut off any excess wire.
Repeat for each base wire.
The Lights
Grab your Fairy Lights and make a nest of them in your lamp. If you have waterproof lights that is even better!
You Made It!
Amazing job, everyone! This hanging light can be unique for each person who makes it. Maybe you used colored burlap or different beads. The point is that you made something really cool! Hang it up and relax with your favorite tropical treat!
Thank you to everyone who made it all the way down here! Please be sure to check out our Instagram and Pinterest for more projects and photos! Share with your Disney DIY loving friends and family, too. We really appreciate it!
All images on this website were taken by and belong to Main Street D.I.Y. If you wish to share an image, please give credit where credit is due!Send the people our way!
Speed past the yeti at Disneyland, but don’t pass up this little guy! We’re celebrating the anniversary of the Matterhorn Bobsleds –which opened June 14, 1959– with this needle felted yeti. If you’ve never tried needle felting before, I suggest you don’t do it while angry or distracted! We’re working with very sharp objects!
I’m no expert at needle felting. I have no idea what kind of needles I used, so I apologize to those who actually know what they’re doing!
Let’s get it started by looking at what things you’ll need!
We’re starting off with a good big piece of batting.Mine’s about 7 inches long and 5 inches wide.
Grab a Needle Felting Needle and start punching away! The more you punch the denser the batting will get. Think of it like you’re sculpting with clay, but you’re using a needle to direct where your “clay” goes.
The goal is to create a dense oval-like shape that’s tapered towards the bottom. This is the body of the yeti.
Tear off a smaller piece of batting (about half the length of your body piece) and start rolling. Felt the rolled parts, folding the outsides to the middle to create a dense ball. It’s not a sphere… more like a rounded cube. Now you have the head!
Use some loose batting and fix the head onto the body.
The Arms and Legs
Grab a couple chunks of batting about the length and width of the body.
Roll and needle felt until a dense log has formed. One end of the arm should be punched in, but not too much. The other end will have loose batting.
Make one more arm.
Fix the arms to the yeti shoulder using the loose battingon the top of the arm all the way around, under his armpit.
Repeat the steps for creating the arms to create the legs, except they are a little shorter and thicker. The loose batting at the tops of the legs should go all the way around the bottom of the body, but a good portion of it should go to the butt.
Position your yeti in a seated position upside down and needle felt his booty towards his legs.
The Fur
Grab some Dark Grey Wool and tear off small pieces. Punch your needle into the pieces onto the body and shape them into little leaves. We’re only doing this on the chest and back to create dimension. This step is optional if you don’t have grey wool.
Use the Light Blue Wool and lay it onto the yeti’s face. Punch in your needle and direct the edges of the wool into an oval shape. Layer and repeat.
Create a ball with the light blue wool by rolling up a piece, felting it, and pulling in from the sides to the center. Keep felting until the ball has formed. Leave some loose wool at the back to fix it onto the face.
The White Wool will be used for our yeti’s fur.
Separate thin bits of wool and punch your needle into the pieces so they stick together at one end. Use your other hand and pinch the bottom end together to shape it into a triangle. Punch your needle down to solidify the shapes.
Tip: Grab from multiple places on your smaller pieces to create more tangles.
Cut a slice of white wool and cut sections without cutting all the way to the top. Needle felt the pieces into triangles like before to create icicle-like pieces.
Take the separated pieces of white wool and felt it to the sides of the face, the upper back, and the shoulders. The face pieces are short, the back and shoulder pieces are longer.
The strips of white wool will be used to cover the rest of the body in layers. It’s going to take a lot of these! You can either layer top-to-bottom or the other way around. Just make sure you’re not punching in the individual hair locks.
Hands and Feet
Grab your light blue wool and roll and felt two small balls. Keep rolling, grabbing in from the sides to the center and punch your needle in until a dense ball has formed and cut off so that there is some loose wool left.
The feet are the same, just cylinders so you don’t have to pull in from the sides.
We want a crook in the foot (for the ankle) so take the loose end and fold it up with some of the dense part and punch that in place.
Fix your hands and feet in the loose ends of the arms and legs. You should be able to nestle them in and needle felt them together.
Take the loose ends of the arms and legs and felt them to the sides of the hands and feet. You can direct the wool to look more pieced.
Finishing up the Body
Continue cutting those strips of wool. You’re gonna need a lot.Layer them onto the arms and legs either bottom-to-top or top-to-bottom until the white batting is covered. Be thorough with your felting or the hair will fall off!
I worked both directions and it was fine either way, Again, don’t felt the individual locks of hair until your layers are complete. And when felting the locks of hair, don’t do it too much or else there won’t be any definition.
Personality!
Take a small piece of white wool and roll it in your fingers. Punch it on your yeti’s face where his brows should go and trim the excess.
Using your Red Thread, tie a knot at the ends after threading it thru your Sewing Needle. Punch in and out of a very small area under the eyebrows. Criss cross your stitches to create circles for the eyes.
The mouth is just a normal stitch. You can go over it again if you want a consistent line. Tie a tiny knot at the end.
The nostrils are made by punching in near the mouth and pulling back out at the top of the muzzle. You’re going to want to do this two times for a consistent line and tie a knot.
I had a tough time getting the knot to not pull thru. It takes a little patience.
Add some more eyebrow and punch in loose threads for a more appealingand cute face.
My additional brows made him look much friendlier.
You Made It!
Amazing work, everyone! It’s time to find a good place for our yeti to hang out. Some place high? Maybe near a mountain? This little guy is so cute and cuddly, maybe you don’t want him to be anywhere but by your side!
Thanks to everyone who made it down the mountain! Be sure to follow us on Instagram. We post pics from the park on there as well as the final pics of our projects. Follow us on Pinterest and add some of our pins to your inspiration boards! And please share with your Disney, DIY loving friends and family. We’d really appreciate it!
All images on this website were taken by and belong to Main Street D.I.Y. If you wish to share an image, please give credit where credit is due!Send the people our way!
Clean cup, clean cup! Move down, move down, move down!! Today’s project is inspired by The Mad Tea Party ride at the Disneyland Resort. I love the lanterns that canopy over the teacups and light up in all sorts of colors at night. I wanted to recreate that feeling with this project. We’ll be using some watercolor techniques, but don’t worry. You can definitely do this! Here’s what you’ll need:
*Cost is approximated with coupons/sales and if you don’t already have all the supplies. You may have leftovers! If the cost is $0, I’m assuming you already have these things.
Tools List:
Appx Cost:
Ruler
$0
Pencil
$0
Jar of Water
$0
Paint Brush
$3
Scrap Paper
$0
Approximate Cost of Tools:
$3
*Cost is approximated with coupons/sales and if you don’t already have all the supplies. You may have leftovers! If the cost is $0, I’m assuming you already have these things.
Instructions
Measure your Lampshade and decide how tall you want your teacups to be. They should be less than a third of the lampshade.
Take a piece of paper and fold it in half. This will be the template for your teacups.
Draw a line to double check the size and sketch in some circles to represent where your “guests” will be sitting.
With the paper fold on the left, draw a diagonal line curving in a little towards the bottom.
Cut out your teacup template. Adjust if necessary.
Trace your template around the base of the lampshade. There should be ample space in between each cup to accommodate handles.
The teacup handles are in the shape of an ear. It’s rounded at the top and curves hard towards the cup.
To make your cups look different, you can change the width of the handles or not have handles at all, as if the cup has turned away from you.
Adding Character
To draw your guests, start with a circle a little bit above the rim of the teacup.
Draw two lines underneath the head to represent the body.
Draw two sets of stick arms and fingers for some guests who are having areally good time.
You can add small tufts of hair, ponytails, or smiles to make each guest unique.
The Lanterns
There are three shapes for the lanterns that will go on the top rim of the lampshade.
Each shape has two thin rectangles on the top and bottom.
The first shape is a diamond, next is a long oval, and finally a double diamond.
Draw these lantern shapes around the top of your lampshade.
IfI make this project again, I would makemy lanterns a little bigger.
Take your Paint Pens and start outlining the lanterns. Fill in just the outer most part of the lantern. You can alternatively do this with regular acrylic paint and a liner brush.
Use Colored Pencils to fill in the rest of the lantern shape.
Once dry, use a black paint pen or acrylic paint to fill in the rectangles on the top and bottom of the lanterns.
The diamond shaped lanterns have this squiggle design on them.
Complete your lanterns all the way around the lampshade.
Warning: Because the lampshade is fabric, paints will bleed if wet!
Fill in your teacups and guests with black. Make sure everything is bone dry first!
Paint Time
To make the lanterns come to life, we’ll be using acrylic paint and water.
Using a wet Paint Brush, dip into your color and paint a circle under each lantern. The color should match the lantern’s color.
Quickly get more water on your brush and soak the spot you painted while rubbing it around where you want color to go. Repeat as necessary.
Here’s a step by step of how to apply your paint. Make sure the black is completely dry before doing this or it will bleed.
Do the lantern’s lights first and then fill in around with different colors.
Tip: Be careful! Colors opposite on the color wheel will turn grey and muddy when mixed. (yellow + purple, red + green, blue + orange)
Use paint pens to draw lines of colored light on your guests depending on which colored lantern they’re under.
Cover all white spots with color.
You made it!
Fantastic job, everyone! This is a fun project if you have a room that needs a little color and a touch of madness. It makes me happy seeing this all lit up just like the ride at the park. I can’t wait to ride it again and hear those whistling teapots!
Thanks for making it ALLLL the way down here in Wonderland! Please be sure to check out our Instagram and Pinterest. Follow us for more projects like this and photos from the park! If you have a DIY, Disney loving friend or family member, consider sharing this with them. We’d really appreciate it!
All images on this website were taken by and belong to Main Street D.I.Y. If you wish to share an image, please give credit where credit is due!Send the people our way!
May the Force be with us! We’re all joining the Resistance, but first…maybe a glass of blue milk. For this project we will be creating a juice glass coaster! It can also function as a glass cover if you’re outside or just a fun piece of art to show off in a shadow box!
Here are the supplies. You’re going to need to order some things online for this one, but it’s totally worth it!
*Cost is approximated with coupons/sales and if you don’t already have all the supplies. You may have leftovers! If the cost is $0, I’m assuming you already have these things.
Tools List:
Appx. Cost:
E6000
$4
Craft Glue
$2
Paintbrush
$2
Toothpick or similar
$0
Scissors
$0
Pencil
$0
Paper Towel or rag
$0
**Approximate Cost of Tools:
$8
*Cost is approximated with coupons/sales and if you don’t already have all the supplies. You may have leftovers! If the cost is $0, I’m assuming you already have these things.
Instructions
Begin by opening and printing out the file below. You’ll find two sizes of the Resistance Emblem. (Obviously, I don’t take credit for the emblem design)
The smaller one is for 3″ circles like the ones I made, the bigger one is for coaster size (4-4.5″). Yes, I made mine too small to be a standard coaster BUT it still works for juice glasses.
Either cut out the emblem and trace onto the back of your Red Foil Cardstock and cut that out… or just cut the two out together to save time. Do this for the number of coasters you want/have supplies for.
Take your Wooden Circles, trace on the back of your Black Foil Cardstock and cut one outfor each coaster.
Set aside your cutouts and paint your wooden circles with the Black Metallic Paint on both sides and the edges. Let it dry!
Tip: Paint with your brushstrokes going the same direction.
Use Craft Glue to secure your black foil cardstock to one side of your woodcircle.
Wipe off the excess with a Paper Towel or rag.
Use your craft glue again for the emblem cutout. Make sure it is a really thin layer of glue. Stick it on dead center and really work on those thin parts so they stay down. The cardstock will have warped with your glue, no worries! it’ll be fine.
Next, add some wear and tear by using your fingernails to scratch and dent your emblem.
Once everything is set and dry, prepare your Acrylic Circles. They come with protective films that need to be removed before gluing onto your coaster. Take one side (or both) off, make sure no dust is on it, and set it aside.
Use a Toothpick to spread a very thin bead of E6000 around the edge of your coaster. This will turn a little bubbly once the acrylic circle is on. It works for this project, but it’s definitely not a “clean” look so be warned for other projects.
Apply your acrylic circle and put under a flat weighted object to dry.
You Made It!
And without getting caught to boot! Congrats and have yourself a blue milk, green milk, cocktail… whatever you want! Thanks for crafting this Resistance Coaster with us.
Thanks to everyone who made it this far. Please check out our Instagram and Pinterest! Follow us for more Disney inspired projects and pictures from Disneyland and California Adventure. Let us know if you made this craft by tagging us and share with your Disney DIY loving friends and family!
All images on this website were taken by and belong to Main Street D.I.Y. If you wish to share an image, please give credit where credit is due!Send the people our way!
