Button Display | Level 1

Welcome! Many people are wondering what to do with their buttons they get from the Disney Parks. I’m here to show you my favorite way with a shadowbox! You can do it very organized or like a collage. Either way, your buttons will look great! Let’s get into it:

Supplies List:
Your Disney Buttons
Shadow Box of choice
Thin Foam or Cork (optional)
Black Felt (optional)


Select which buttons you want to display.

I’ll be using two Halloween AP buttons, a Festival of the Holidays AP button, three small assorted buttons, a Walt Disney Imagineering button I received as a gift, and four different AP Days buttons (also a gift).

Grab your shadow box and remove the back.

The best shadow box for this project is one with a black fabric background. You’ll know if you have the right one if there are pins pinning the sample picture down when you go to buy it. If you can’t find one like this, you can use a foam piece or cork the size of your shadow box opening covered in black felt. That way, you can slide your buttons in and out without leaving a bunch of holes.

I used this ticket shadow box from Michaels. I chose which buttons I thought worked best in color and size to display together. In the finished pictures below, you’ll see the collage option for displaying your buttons.

Arrange your buttons the way you like. I chose to do a very organized display. I made sure my eye wasn’t being drawn to any one place before finalizing my button placement.

Straighten out the pin backing and check to see the direction of the pin compared to the image. Sometimes the pins are slightly off from the picture. You just want to make sure the image is level.

This is the tricky part. Pin into the fabric and slide your button in. You’ll need to pin it off to the side a little so the button becomes centered. when you slide it in Take your time and redo as needed.

Do the same thing for the remaining buttons!

Once every button is in place, check to see if each image is level. Then, pop it back into the shadow box.

You Did It!

I hope you like your new button display! What buttons do you have? Any AP holders out there? Or maybe you just like the little ones you can pick up while in line…in any case I hope you had fun!

Here is another way to display your buttons of all shapes and sizes!

Thanks, everyone! Please follow us on Instagram and Pinterest for more projects like this and photos from Disneyland. Be sure to share with your Disney DIY loving friends and family!

All images on this website were taken by and belong to Main Street D.I.Y. If you wish to share an image, please give credit where credit is due! Send the people our way!

“Hunny” Gardening Pot – Inspired by Winnie the Pooh | Level 1

Winnie the pooh terracotta pot plant

Why, hello there! This project is fun and easy for the whole family that is inspired by the laziest lump of fluff we all know and love: Winnie the Pooh. You’ll be creating your own honey–or “hunny”–pot filled to the brim with that sticky yellow goodness. Let’s see what you’ll need:

Supplies List:Tools List:
Terracotta PotMedium Sized Paint Brush
Purple Outdoor PaintLiner Paint Brush or White Paint Pen
Saffron Yellow Outdoor PaintLarge Paint Brush
White Acrylic PaintDisposable Cup
Rocks (for drainage- if the pot doesn’t have a hole at the bottom)Painter’s Tape


Place your Terracotta Pot onto a bit of cardboard or a paper bag.

Mix together the White Paint with the Purple Outdoor Paint in a separate cup to create a lighter purple color.

Paint the entire outside of your pot excluding the bottom. Try to brush horizontally along the pot with the grain.

Let it dry and apply a second coat if you wish.

Once dry, Use some painter’s tape and place the top edge of the tape about 2 inches from the bottom of the pot. Try to make a straight line with that top edge of the tape all the way around the pot.

Use the purple outdoor paint (not the light one you mixed) and paint a big thick band around the pot.

You can use a large rubber band that fits snuggly to the pot to create a straight top line, but I just went for it.

Let it dry.

Grab your Saffron Yellow Outdoor Paint and start painting drips of honey on the top edge of your pot. You can draw little swoops and squiggles and fill them in with the paint. Paint them in different sizes and add long drips to make it more believable.

I wouldn’t recommend the brand of paint I used for the honey. It was very sheer and I had to layer it about 4 times.

Let it dry before adding more coats–if necessary. Also, paint the first couple inches inside the pot with the yellow as well.

Use a Liner brush (a brush that is thin and long) to write out the letters: ‘H’ ‘U’ ‘N’ ‘N’ ‘Y’ with the first ‘N’ written backwards in white paint.

Use that same brush to add little highlights to the dripping honey. Choose one side of the drips so it looks like light is coming from the same direction.

Lastly, if your pot doesn’t have a drainage hole, add some rocks to the bottom before planting!

You Made It!

Wow, that was great, everyone! I hope you enjoyed this little craft. I’m sure yours is absolutely adorable! I think it’s perfect for any Disney lover’s garden. The plant I chose to put in my pot is called a Paula Rhodoxis. It has these pretty pink star-shaped flowers and the leaves almost look like cat nip.

Winnie the pooh terracotta pot plant
Winnie the pooh terracotta pot plant
Winnie the pooh terracotta pot plant

Thanks to those who made it this far! Please follow us on Instagram and Pinterest for more projects like this and photos from the Disneyland Resort. We’d also really appreciate it if you’d share our DIYs with your Disney and crafting friends!

All images on this website were taken by and belong to Main Street D.I.Y. If you wish to share an image, please give credit where credit is due! Send the people our way!

Enchanted Birdhouse – Inspired by the Enchanted Tiki Room | Level 3

Aloha! Welcome! Today we are creating a tropical birdhouse for our macaw hosts Jose, Michael, Pierre, and Fritz. We’ll be singing like the birdies so grab your pineapple whip and let’s get started! Here’s what you’ll need:

Supplies List:Tools List:
Gazebo BirdhouseHot Glue + Glue Gun
TwineTacky Glue
Wooden MatchsticksScissors
Assorted Round Wood ShapesAcrylic Paint Brushes
Acrylic PaintMacaw Printout (below)
Colored Pencil Set


Feather Roof

We’re going to start with decorating the roof with these tear-drop shaped wooden pieces. The pattern goes like this:

Layer 1: 5 small

Layer 2: 3 small

Layer 3: 3 medium

Layer 4: 3 medium

Layer 5: 3 large

If you want, paint the wood before gluing the feathers. I would if I did this again, but that’s what I get for making decisions on the spot.

Spread out your pieces in order of your layers and start painting!

I tried to match the colors to the hosts of the Enchanted Tiki Room so the colors would be more cohesive in the end. I also made sure to have 2 green, 2 yellow, and 2 blue layer 1s.

Start hot glueing layer 1 to the bottom of the roof, letting a little overhang,

Follow that with layer 2 in the center of the 5 layer 1 feathers.

Layer 3 on top of that with the center feather angled towards one side so it covers a gap.

Layer 4 is the same with the center feather angled the other way covering the other gap. This will make you lower that center feather. It’s all good, though.

Top it all off with layer 5. The center feather goes down first. Nestle it under the topper and glue the other two pieces on top. Don’t let the feathers go too much over the edges or else the other sides won’t fit.

Repeat the process for the other roof sides.


A Couple Details

Grab some Tacky Glue and your Wooden Matchsticks. We’re making a little deck for our birdhouse. This part is optional if you don’t want to spend more time than necessary.

Layer your matchsticks so that two sides meet at one corner of your birdhouse forming an arrow. It will leave 3 alternating corners open–which we’ll fill later.

Finish your topper by glueing around some twine. You can use tacky glue or hot glue.

Rooftop Pizzazz

Mix together some brown paint and finish your roof. I wish I had done this before glueing the feathers down.

We’re also painting about a half inch onto the birdhouse sides.

As you let your roof dry, cut pieces of twine. Each corner will get a center string and two strings folded in half.

Glue your twin to the corners with a single cut string in the center and a folded string on each side.

Cut off the excess.

Take your twine and line the outside edge of the roof.

Then, wrap and glue twine around the top of the sides of the birdhouse. 3 times should do.

The Birds Sing Words

I outlined some existing art of the macaws and have a printout for you to download if you wish. They are each 2″x 3″.

Print out your birds and cut them out.

Trace around the bird in the center of 4 out of 6 sides.

I left the front and back panels blank (for now) and drew on the remaining sides.

Flip over the printouts and use a soft pencil to trace the lines from the other side. You should be able to see them. If not, place it over a window. Really layer on the graphite.

Put the printout back on your panel and trace the lines on the top of the printout so the graphite on the back rubs off onto the side panel. Like a carbon copy.

Repeat for the other three sides.

Paint Time

Mix together some black, blue, and green paint for the background. Do not mix it thoroughly so you’ll be able to get some variation as your paint.

I added some streaks of blue and yellow-green on top of my background to give it more interest.

Paint your macaws with their respective colors! Everyone gets a tan chest, white faces, and dark versions of their head feathers for the dots on their cheeks and the streak on their faces.

Red head, tan cheeks and brow, and yellow under feathers for Fritz.

Green head, white cheeks and brow, and yellow under feathers for Michael.

Blue head, white cheeks and brow, and red under feathers for Pierre.

Red head, yellow cheeks and brow, and green under feathers for Jose.

I finished the back panel with a pineapple whip. Yum!

Use a black colored pencil to flesh out some details once everything is dry.

Paint the deck with brown. Again, use a loose mix of dark and light brown so you get a “wood grain” appearance.

Paint the bottom of the birdhouse the same way. Be sure to paint in the direction of the wood grain. If you can’t, just make sure it’s all in the same direction.

Grab 3 little oval wood pieces and paint those a light brown. Glue them down where there were gaps in the deck once they’re dry.


Take a bunch of large and medium sized oval wood pieces and paint them half light, half dark green.

Once dry, take a dark green colored pencil and draw a line down the middle of each oval. Follow that up with some curving lines to create leaves!

Take a bunch of medium circles and paint them in yellows, pinks, and purples.

Add thin green stripes like spokes on a wheel.

Finish up the medium circles with flowers in the middle.

Paint the large circles a purpley brown.

Top those with different colored flowers like blue, pink, yellow, and purple. The tips of these flowers should be different, even contrasting, colors.

Paint the small circles solid red and yellow.

Adorn your Birdhouse

Arrange and glue down your flowers and leaves onto the birdhouse.

You can start with minimal decoration and then add on if necessary.

It doesn’t matter where the pieces are placed as long as they don’t block the macaws’ faces. I wanted to cover the bottoms of their portraits which also hid some areas I missed while painting.

Clean up all of the hot glue strings when everything is set!

Lastly, paint the little dowel perch on the front of the birdhouse.

You Did It!

Amazing job, friends! I love this birdhouse. It might be my favorite project so far! I’m excited to see if any real birds will like it… if not, I’ll definitely enjoy looking at it in my backyard.

Thanks to everyone who made it all the way down here! Please be sure to follow us on Instagram and Pinterest for more projects like this and photos from the Disneyland Resort. Share with your Disney DIY loving friends and family! We’d really appreciate it!!

All images on this website were taken by and belong to Main Street D.I.Y. If you wish to share an image, please give credit where credit is due! Send the people our way!

Cafe Orleans Terrarium | Level 1 or Level 3

Hello, y’all! This terrarium is inspired by favorite restaurant in New Orleans Square: Cafe Orleans! You read that right, not Blue Bayou. Cafe Orleans. They have pomme frites, monte cristos, and they used to have the most delicious sausage gumbo! And if you’re lucky you can watch Fantasmic from the outside dining area after dinner.

Originally, I was planning on putting a lot of plants in this terrarium–you’ll see in the supplies photo– but I ended up using just one faux plant. It made things simpler and I think it really worked out.

This projects is a level 3 because we’re going to be painting, HOWEVER!! You can make it as a level 1 by printing out a photo of New Orleans Square!

Here are the supplies:

Supplies List:Tools List:
For Level 3:
Watercolor PaperWatercolor brushes
Watercolor SetRuler
Pencil, Colored Pencils
Paper Towel
White Gel Pen
For Both Level 3 and 1:Scissors
Small Vase Filler Rocks
Black Vase Filler Stones
Magnolia Flowers
Mini Dining Set


Painting the Background!

Grab a piece of Watercolor Paper and lay it underneath your terrarium. Outline it with a pencil. Depending on the shape of your terrarium, you might want to do more than two paintings.

Have some references at the ready! I chose to paint the blue building for the inside of my terrarium and the tan building for the backside.

Start lightly sketching out your building with a pencil. Use a ruler to keep things straight and symmetrical.

The blue building has a circular window at the top, columns on the sides, and symmetrical windows so everything you do on one side, you’ll draw the same of the other.

Because the 1st and 2nd level windows line up, I drew guidelines all the way down the front facade.

The tricky part were the rounded shutters on the 1st level’s windows. The highest point of the curve–which is the outside edge–lined up with the highest point of the rounded window. Drawing a horizontal guideline there will help keep everything even.

The railing is simple enough. The 2nd floor is just vertical spindles, the 1st floor is made of X’s.

A box in the middle is for the name of the restaurant. Little drapes flow on the bottom. Erase where needed.

Start off by brushing your paper with water where you want the paint to flow. Add more paint to the places there are shadows like under the trimming, the inside parts next to the columns, and underneath the 2nd floor windows.

Don’t add too much paint and water at once. Let it dry and you can layer up the color for a deeper appearance. Remember, wherever it is wet, the color will flow.

Use different shades of green to create the potted plants on the balconies.

Go in with relevant colored pencils to amp up the detail and deepen shadows. I also painted some blue in the windows (on dry paper) and went in with a grey colored pencil and drew a line on the left and bottom edges of each little window to create some dimension.

Finally, use a white gel pen to clean up the white parts if necessary.

Go ahead and sketch the other facade using another piece of watercolor paper. This one is also symmetrical! Erase where needed.

The corner pieces of the balcony and the railing are left blank because I’ll be drawing in the detail with a colored pencil after everything is dry.

Paint the same way you did earlier. Watercolor is all about many thin layers so take your time! Use colored pencils after it’s dry to define details.

If you’re not up for the painting, you can always print out a photo of your favorite building in New Orleans Square and use that as your background instead!


Cut your watercolor pieces to fit inside the terrarium. You should have one facing outside and one facing inside. I tried gluing my pieces together so they’d lay flush, but it didn’t work that well. The paper was too strong! I’d suggest you try to flatten them out under something heavy before continuing.

Take a handful of Moss and stuff it on the bottom of your terrarium,

Add some smaller Vase Filler rocks and top those with larger black Pebbles.

Cut apart a couple Magnolia flowers from their stem and stick them into the pebbles.

Lastly, pop in your Miniature Table and Chairs.

You can glue the dining pieces to some pebbles if you want more stability. They can end up toppled over otherwise. But, that’s it!!

You Made It!

Amazing job, everyone! I would love to see what kind of terrariums you guys came up with. Each can be so unique especially with the variety of terrariums out there. I really liked this house shape from Michaels. It sparked the idea in the first place! New Orleans Square is my favorite land in Disneyland and I just love the atmosphere and delicious food of Cafe Orleans. I hope you enjoyed this project!

Thank you for making it all the way down here. Please follow us on Instagram and Pinterest for more projects like this and pictures from the parks! Share with your Disney DIY loving friends and family, too. We’d really appreciate it! See you all next time!

All images on this website were taken by and belong to Main Street D.I.Y. If you wish to share an image, please give credit where credit is due! Send the people our way!

Under the Sea! Bracelet – Inspired by Ariel | Level 1

We’re in the swing of summer and what better way to celebrate than by making a little mermaid flair? This Ariel inspired bracelet is perfect for Disney bounding or just adding a bit of Disney charm to your everyday outfit. Easy enough for a beginning jewelry maker! Here are the supplies and tools you’ll need:

Supplies List:Tools List:
20 Gauge Wire Silver PlatedRound Nosed Pliers
Lobster ClaspsNylon Pliers
4 Fish BeadsFlat Nosed Pliers
2 Starfish BeadsFlush Cutter/Nipper
2 Scallop Beads
10 Purple Glass Beads
4 Sea Foam Green Glass Beads
3 Assorted Pearls
Charm (optional)


Roll out your 24 gauge Wire and straighten it with some Nylon Pliers. Typical length would be about 14-15 inches, I use 13 inches.

Prepare your beads. Line them up next to your wire or ruler to get the right length. You should leave a couple inches on either side to accommodate wire wrapping the clasp.

I have the scallop beads as the featured part of the bracelet with the big pearl in the middle. I love how it isn’t costume-y or clunky looking at all. The glass beads represent Ariel’s purple shell top and her green tail. And the fish beads are so cute!

Curve the wire around your wrist loosely.

String the beads onto the wire.

If you have a Charm, you’ll have to put a jump ring on it if it doesn’t come with one. Simply open the ring at the seam, hook it in, and close. You can do this for your lobster clasp as well, I happen to not use the jump ring for mine this time.

Directly string on your lobster clasp and bend the wire back.

Grab the two sides of the wire with pliers and wrap the open side around 3 times. Flush cut the end and squeeze tight with the pliers. Slide your beads to meet the coil so you can work on the other side.

On the other side of the bracelet, string on your charm if you have one. Use Round Nose Pliers to bend the wire and wrap around the pliers to create a loop. Slide your charm into the loop.

Make sure to make this loop close to your beads so there’s little to no sliding around!

Complete the loop by wrapping the open side around 3 times like before. Flush cut the end and squeeze together.

You Made It!

Amazing work! I bet Ariel would want to put this in her collection! This is a simple bracelet that anyone can do if they have the right tools. Perfect for beginning jewelry makers. I hope you enjoyed this DIY!

Thanks for making it all the way under the sea! Please follow us on Instagram and Pinterest for more projects like this and photos from the Disneyland Resort! Share with your DIY Disney loving friends and family, too! We’d really really appreciate it.

All images on this website were taken by and belong to Main Street D.I.Y. If you wish to share an image, please give credit where credit is due! Send the people our way!

Mickey and Friends Pin Wheels | Level 1

Have a blast with these character inspired pinwheels! It’s a subtle nod to Mickey and friends featuring their signature colors. These are functioning pinwheels that use sewing pins so be careful when assembling!

Supplies List:Tools List:
Wooden DowelsScissors
Sewing PinsHammer
Round BeadsNail
Scrapbook Paper (or double sided card stock)Pliers
Scrap PaperScotch Tape
Glue Stick


First, select your papers based off of the characters’ signature colors.

I chose a red polka-dot pattern and yellow flower pattern for Minnie, red flowers and black patterns for Mickey, Blue, white and yellow patterns for Donald, a groovy pattern and blue polka-dot pattern for Goofy. They all came from the same paper pack, so the colors were easy to mix and match.

Most of the time, scrapbook paper will be 12×12″, so cut them down to 6×6″.

Using a slicer-dicer works great for getting perfect 90 degree angles.

Match up your papers and place them white side up.

If you’re using double sided paper, you don’t have to do this.

Use a glue stick and apply the glue to one of the two pieces of paper. Carefully place the other piece on top and secure in place. Make sure it has a good bond. If there is white excess, cut off with a scissor.

Diagonally, the squares should be just about 8.5″. Grab a Ruler and measure to the middle of the diagonal (4.25″). From that center point, skip to 3″ and 5.5″ and make a mark.

Draw lines from those points to their respective corners. Repeat for the other diagonal.

Cut along the lines you drew.

As you can see, you are able to pull up four corners and the pin wheel takes shape!

Prepare the Sticks

Take your wooden dowels, a thin nail, and a hammer.

Hammer the nail thru the dowels and pull back out.

I ended up splitting my dowels–they were pretty thin–but I was able to use tape to keep them together.

Putting it all Together

In the middle of each of those corners, poke a hole using a Pin. I didn’t do this until the end on my Minnie Pinwheel, but did it at the beginning for the other pinwheels.

Poke a hold in the middle of your pin wheel as well.

Take some Scrap Paper and cut out small circles to fit over the corners. Poke a hole thru those.

Grab your glue stick and start assembling your corners on top of the center hole. Each hole should stack on top of the previous.

Top it off with the small circle and put the pin thru.

I used different colored pins for each character.

Take a bead and put that over the pin. This helps the wheel spin freely!

Poke everything thru the wooden dowel.

Grab a pair of Pliers and hold the pin wheel securely with your hand as you bend the pin down the side of the wooden dowel.

Tape it in place! Yes the green tape is very jarring, but it faces the back so it doesn’t really matter. You are free to use whatever color tape you have or like, of course.

Repeat the entire process with your other characters!

You Made It!

Great job! I hope you make them because these are so much fun to watch in the summer breeze.

I added some silhouettes of Mickey, Minnie, Donald, and Goofy to differentiate the pinwheels and be a little more obvious. You can find the Mickey, Donald, and Goofy PDFs from this blog here. I’m so grateful for these! I just used the Mickey and added an eyelash and bow to create Minnie in Illustrator.

Thank you for making it all the way down here! If you like this project, go ahead and check out our other projects! Follow us on Instagram and Pinterest and please share with your Disney DIY loving friends and family. We’d really appreciate it!

All images on this website were taken by and belong to Main Street D.I.Y. If you wish to share an image, please give credit where credit is due! Send the people our way!

Tropical Hideaway Light | Level 3

hanging light made of burlap with dangling tassels

Welcome! This week’s project is inspired by the hanging lights found in Adventureland’s Topical Hideaway at the Disneyland Resort! It’s the newest eatery at Adventureland and they sell the best treat on earth: Dole Whip. The ambiance is also very relaxing and the area features some fun hanging lights that I wanted to recreate so I can get that Tropical Hideaway feeling at home! Here’s what you’ll need:

Supplies List:Tools List:
10 inch Floral HoopWire Cutter
Floral WireScissors
Craft WireHot Glue + Glue Gun
Burlap in brown and other color(s)Painter’s Tape
Wired Fabric Ribbon
Raffia Ribbon
3 Wooden Dowels
Shell Beads
Wooden Beads (variety)
Fairy Lights


The Skeleton

First, take your Floral Wire. Measure and cut four 14 inch lengths.

Prepare your Floral Hoop.

Bend about 1.5″ of each of the lengths of floral wire and wrap around the floral hoop. These will be your base wires.

After bending the wire, I looped it around itself before wrapping the rest around the hoop.

Measure and cut 12 inches of the floral wire.

Shape the wire into a circle that has exactly two loops.

At the top of your base wires, measure 1.5 inches and bend it outward around the double-looped circle.

Wrap the excess and repeat with the other base wires.

At this point, you can mold the base wires into your lamp shape. To support the lamp, we’ll be using Wooden Dowels.

A little above the half-way point in your structure, measure and cut the dowels to size. We’ll be fixing them perpendicularly. The dowels don’t have to touch, but they should be close.

You can cut them however you like. I cut them by rolling the dowel in a scissor and then snapping the pieces apart.

Tape one side of a dowel to one of the base wires to keep it in place.

Use your Craft Wire to secure the other side to the base wire.

Repeat with the other side and the other dowel.

Don’t worry if the dowel slips out of your craft wire, we’ll be securing it with twine later.

Take another, smaller piece of wooden dowel and shove it in between the layers of your circle. The wire should be flexible enough for you to do this. Crimp the wire around the sides of your dowel.

To complete the structure, use the floral wire and wrap around the diameter of your lamp about 4-5 inches from the bottom, wrapping at each base wire.

Wrap another ring towards the top of the lamp, above your perpendicular dowels.

It isn’t pretty…yet!

Base: Part 1

Grab your twine and wrap tight coils around every piece of hoop and wire, Hot Gluing where necessary-like the joints. Don’t forget to wrap where your dowels meet the wire!

When you’re done, grab some twine, wrap a piece around the short dowel a few times and make a loop at the top of the lamp. This will let us hang our light. It isn’t pictured here, but you’ll see later.

Base: Part 2

Grab a roll of Burlap and drape it over one side of your structure.

Shove in one side into the small circle on the top, wrap under and glue in place.

Wrap the bottom of the piece around the floral hoop and glue in place on the inside of the lamp.

Glue to the skeleton and the burlap for a secure fit.

Do this on the opposite side with the same (or different depending on your design) piece of burlap.

For the other piece of burlap, cut a slit so that it fits around the short wooden dowel in the wire circle.

Glue the edges in place like before and repeat the process on the opposite side. Again, if you wish to use different types of burlap for each side or what have you, GO FOR IT! 🙂

Weave some burlap under the other pieces of burlap and over the base wire. This is to cover the bottom portion of our light.

Hot glue the bottom edge to the floral hoop. Leave some space near the base wire. We’re going to need that space soon.

The picture (right) shows the lamp upside down, by the way.


Cut 8 strips of Raffia Ribbon and fold them in half over a piece of twine.

Take a another piece of twine and tie the top together to create a tassel.

Use the first piece of twine to attach the tassel to the floral hoop next to the base wire. To make the tassel swing, tie the knot with some space away from the tassel itself.

Repeat 3 more times for each base wire.

Loosely braid raffia ribbon. I used a four strand braid with one being a piece of twine.

Glue the braid to the outside of the lamp at the height of the horizontal burlap piece. This gives it a more finished, blocked out look.

Braid 4 more raffia ribbon braids. They will be the length from the top of the lamp to your 4-strand braid. Glue in place.

Leave some raffia ribbon out at the bottom of the braids to act as tassels.

Take your wired ribbon and cut 6 pieces about 3 inches long. This is my pop of color. You may want to use something different that fits your light!

Squish the top together and tie in place with twine.

Glue to the top of the lamp.

Cut a length of craft wire and string on your wooden beads and shell beads in the order you like. Loop the wire thru the last bead to secure it on each side. Mine was around 2 inches in diameter when done. The large shell beads are 1-1.5 inches long.

Wrap around the base wire where the wooden dowels meet and let it dangle. Cut off any excess wire.

Repeat for each base wire.

The Lights

Grab your Fairy Lights and make a nest of them in your lamp. If you have waterproof lights that is even better!

You Made It!

Amazing job, everyone! This hanging light can be unique for each person who makes it. Maybe you used colored burlap or different beads. The point is that you made something really cool! Hang it up and relax with your favorite tropical treat!

hanging light made of burlap with dangling tassels

Thank you to everyone who made it all the way down here! Please be sure to check out our Instagram and Pinterest for more projects and photos! Share with your Disney DIY loving friends and family, too. We really appreciate it!

All images on this website were taken by and belong to Main Street D.I.Y. If you wish to share an image, please give credit where credit is due! Send the people our way!

Yeti – Inspired by Harold of the Matterhorn Bobsleds | Level 2

Speed past the yeti at Disneyland, but don’t pass up this little guy! We’re celebrating the anniversary of the Matterhorn Bobsleds –which opened June 14, 1959– with this needle felted yeti. If you’ve never tried needle felting before, I suggest you don’t do it while angry or distracted! We’re working with very sharp objects!

I’m no expert at needle felting. I have no idea what kind of needles I used, so I apologize to those who actually know what they’re doing!

Let’s get it started by looking at what things you’ll need!

Supplies List:Tools List:
BattingFelting Needles
White Wool Roving Red Thread
Dark Grey Wool RovingBlue Thread
Light Blue Wool RovingSewing Needle
Needle Felting MatScissors


We’re starting off with a good big piece of batting. Mine’s about 7 inches long and 5 inches wide.

Grab a Needle Felting Needle and start punching away! The more you punch the denser the batting will get. Think of it like you’re sculpting with clay, but you’re using a needle to direct where your “clay” goes.

The goal is to create a dense oval-like shape that’s tapered towards the bottom. This is the body of the yeti.

Tear off a smaller piece of batting (about half the length of your body piece) and start rolling. Felt the rolled parts, folding the outsides to the middle to create a dense ball. It’s not a sphere… more like a rounded cube. Now you have the head!

Use some loose batting and fix the head onto the body.

The Arms and Legs

Grab a couple chunks of batting about the length and width of the body.

Roll and needle felt until a dense log has formed. One end of the arm should be punched in, but not too much. The other end will have loose batting.

Make one more arm.

Fix the arms to the yeti shoulder using the loose batting on the top of the arm all the way around, under his armpit.

Repeat the steps for creating the arms to create the legs, except they are a little shorter and thicker. The loose batting at the tops of the legs should go all the way around the bottom of the body, but a good portion of it should go to the butt.

Position your yeti in a seated position upside down and needle felt his booty towards his legs.

The Fur

Grab some Dark Grey Wool and tear off small pieces. Punch your needle into the pieces onto the body and shape them into little leaves. We’re only doing this on the chest and back to create dimension. This step is optional if you don’t have grey wool.

Use the Light Blue Wool and lay it onto the yeti’s face. Punch in your needle and direct the edges of the wool into an oval shape. Layer and repeat.

Create a ball with the light blue wool by rolling up a piece, felting it, and pulling in from the sides to the center. Keep felting until the ball has formed. Leave some loose wool at the back to fix it onto the face.

The White Wool will be used for our yeti’s fur.

Separate thin bits of wool and punch your needle into the pieces so they stick together at one end. Use your other hand and pinch the bottom end together to shape it into a triangle. Punch your needle down to solidify the shapes.

Tip: Grab from multiple places on your smaller pieces to create more tangles.

Cut a slice of white wool and cut sections without cutting all the way to the top. Needle felt the pieces into triangles like before to create icicle-like pieces.

Take the separated pieces of white wool and felt it to the sides of the face, the upper back, and the shoulders. The face pieces are short, the back and shoulder pieces are longer.

The strips of white wool will be used to cover the rest of the body in layers. It’s going to take a lot of these! You can either layer top-to-bottom or the other way around. Just make sure you’re not punching in the individual hair locks.

Hands and Feet

Grab your light blue wool and roll and felt two small balls. Keep rolling, grabbing in from the sides to the center and punch your needle in until a dense ball has formed and cut off so that there is some loose wool left.

The feet are the same, just cylinders so you don’t have to pull in from the sides.

We want a crook in the foot (for the ankle) so take the loose end and fold it up with some of the dense part and punch that in place.

Fix your hands and feet in the loose ends of the arms and legs. You should be able to nestle them in and needle felt them together.

Take the loose ends of the arms and legs and felt them to the sides of the hands and feet. You can direct the wool to look more pieced.

Finishing up the Body

Continue cutting those strips of wool. You’re gonna need a lot. Layer them onto the arms and legs either bottom-to-top or top-to-bottom until the white batting is covered. Be thorough with your felting or the hair will fall off!

I worked both directions and it was fine either way, Again, don’t felt the individual locks of hair until your layers are complete. And when felting the locks of hair, don’t do it too much or else there won’t be any definition.


Take a small piece of white wool and roll it in your fingers. Punch it on your yeti’s face where his brows should go and trim the excess.

Using your Red Thread, tie a knot at the ends after threading it thru your Sewing Needle. Punch in and out of a very small area under the eyebrows. Criss cross your stitches to create circles for the eyes.

The mouth is just a normal stitch. You can go over it again if you want a consistent line. Tie a tiny knot at the end.

The nostrils are made by punching in near the mouth and pulling back out at the top of the muzzle. You’re going to want to do this two times for a consistent line and tie a knot.

I had a tough time getting the knot to not pull thru. It takes a little patience.

Add some more eyebrow and punch in loose threads for a more appealing and cute face.

My additional brows made him look much friendlier.

You Made It!

Amazing work, everyone! It’s time to find a good place for our yeti to hang out. Some place high? Maybe near a mountain? This little guy is so cute and cuddly, maybe you don’t want him to be anywhere but by your side!

Thanks to everyone who made it down the mountain! Be sure to follow us on Instagram. We post pics from the park on there as well as the final pics of our projects. Follow us on Pinterest and add some of our pins to your inspiration boards! And please share with your Disney, DIY loving friends and family. We’d really appreciate it!

All images on this website were taken by and belong to Main Street D.I.Y. If you wish to share an image, please give credit where credit is due! Send the people our way!

Tea Party Lampshade – Inspired by The Mad Tea Party | Level 2

Clean cup, clean cup! Move down, move down, move down!! Today’s project is inspired by The Mad Tea Party ride at the Disneyland Resort. I love the lanterns that canopy over the teacups and light up in all sorts of colors at night. I wanted to recreate that feeling with this project. We’ll be using some watercolor techniques, but don’t worry. You can definitely do this! Here’s what you’ll need:

Supplies List:Appx Cost:
White Fabric Lampshade$10
Black, Blue, Purple, Orange, Red, Yellow, and
Green Paint Pens and Acrylic Paint
Colored Pencil Set$10
Approximate Cost of Supplies:$25-55
*Cost is approximated with coupons/sales and if you don’t already have all the supplies. You may have leftovers!
If the cost is $0, I’m assuming you already have these things.
Tools List:Appx Cost:
Jar of Water$0
Paint Brush$3
Scrap Paper$0
Approximate Cost of Tools:$3
*Cost is approximated with coupons/sales and if you don’t already have all the supplies. You may have leftovers!
If the cost is $0, I’m assuming you already have these things.


Measure your Lampshade and decide how tall you want your teacups to be. They should be less than a third of the lampshade.

Take a piece of paper and fold it in half. This will be the template for your teacups.

Draw a line to double check the size and sketch in some circles to represent where your “guests” will be sitting.

With the paper fold on the left, draw a diagonal line curving in a little towards the bottom.

Cut out your teacup template. Adjust if necessary.

Trace your template around the base of the lampshade. There should be ample space in between each cup to accommodate handles.

The teacup handles are in the shape of an ear. It’s rounded at the top and curves hard towards the cup.

To make your cups look different, you can change the width of the handles or not have handles at all, as if the cup has turned away from you.

Adding Character

To draw your guests, start with a circle a little bit above the rim of the teacup.

Draw two lines underneath the head to represent the body.

Draw two sets of stick arms and fingers for some guests who are having a really good time.

You can add small tufts of hair, ponytails, or smiles to make each guest unique.

The Lanterns

There are three shapes for the lanterns that will go on the top rim of the lampshade.

Each shape has two thin rectangles on the top and bottom.

The first shape is a diamond, next is a long oval, and finally a double diamond.

Draw these lantern shapes around the top of your lampshade.

If I make this project again, I would make my lanterns a little bigger.

Take your Paint Pens and start outlining the lanterns. Fill in just the outer most part of the lantern. You can alternatively do this with regular acrylic paint and a liner brush.

Use Colored Pencils to fill in the rest of the lantern shape.

Once dry, use a black paint pen or acrylic paint to fill in the rectangles on the top and bottom of the lanterns.

The diamond shaped lanterns have this squiggle design on them.

Complete your lanterns all the way around the lampshade.

Warning: Because the lampshade is fabric, paints will bleed if wet!

Fill in your teacups and guests with black. Make sure everything is bone dry first!

Paint Time

To make the lanterns come to life, we’ll be using acrylic paint and water.

Using a wet Paint Brush, dip into your color and paint a circle under each lantern. The color should match the lantern’s color.

Quickly get more water on your brush and soak the spot you painted while rubbing it around where you want color to go. Repeat as necessary.

Here’s a step by step of how to apply your paint. Make sure the black is completely dry before doing this or it will bleed.

Do the lantern’s lights first and then fill in around with different colors.

Tip: Be careful! Colors opposite on the color wheel will turn grey and muddy when mixed. (yellow + purple, red + green, blue + orange)

Use paint pens to draw lines of colored light on your guests depending on which colored lantern they’re under.

Cover all white spots with color.

You made it!

Fantastic job, everyone! This is a fun project if you have a room that needs a little color and a touch of madness. It makes me happy seeing this all lit up just like the ride at the park. I can’t wait to ride it again and hear those whistling teapots!

A scene with the lamp and a teacup
Close up of a lampshade with people riding teacups
Lampshade with watercolor like background and people riding teacups lining the bottom.

Thanks for making it ALLLL the way down here in Wonderland! Please be sure to check out our Instagram and Pinterest. Follow us for more projects like this and photos from the park! If you have a DIY, Disney loving friend or family member, consider sharing this with them. We’d really appreciate it!

All images on this website were taken by and belong to Main Street D.I.Y. If you wish to share an image, please give credit where credit is due! Send the people our way!

“Adventure is Out There!” Diorama – Inspired by “Up” | Level 3

Put on those flight goggles because we’re flying up, up, and away with this project! This diorama is inspired by Mr. Fredrickson’s house in Pixar’s “Up”. It’s a perfect decoration for a bookshelf; a place where you can find a multitude of adventures!

This DIY uses Balsa Wood. I’ve named each piece that reflects what they look like. All of these pieces are found in a pack that I’ve linked in the supplies list below. Here is what you’ll need:

Supplies List:Appx Cost:
4 Flat Long Boards 9 x 2.75 in$9 for the pack
2 Thick Boards 5 x 2.75 x 0.5 in
1 Rectangular Pillar 4 x 1 x 1 in
1 Flat Rectangular Piece 9 x 0.5 in
2 Thin Rectangular Pillars 5 x 1/4 x 3/16ths in
4 Small Flat Pieces 5 x 3/16ths x 1/8th in
Acrylic Paint–all the colors$10
*Total Approximate Cost of Supplies:$19
*Cost is approximated with coupons/sales and if you don’t already have all the supplies. You may have leftovers!
If the cost is $0, I’m assuming you already have these things.
Tools List:Appx Cost:
Craft Glue$2
Hobby Knife$5
Paint Brushes- small detail ones and flat$6
Colored Pencils$5
*Total Approximate Cost of Tools:$18
*Cost is approximated with coupons/sales and if you don’t already have all the supplies. You may have leftovers!
If the cost is $0, I’m assuming you already have these things.


First, take two 9″ x 2.75″ Flat Long Boards and glue the long sides together–unless you have a large piece already! Let’s call this the Background Board.

Grab one 5″ x 2.75″ x 0.5 Thick Board, glue one long edge and fix it to the background board so that they are flush. Make sure it is centered. It should not span the length of the background board. This will be the Porch.

Spread glue on the back of another thick board and attach it to the background board to make the house front, perpendicular to the porch.

The background, porch, and house front are taking shape!

Grab a 4″ x 1″ x 1Rectangular Pillar and draw a line on the square edge from one corner to the other. Score it with a Hobby Knife and Saw thru the rest to create two triangular pillars–a.k.a. the Roof. Be sure to wear a mask as balsa wood dust is not good for you!

We want the roof to go to the edge and lay flush with the background board.

The Front Porch

Pick up two 5″ x 1/4″ x 3/16ths Thin Rectangular Pillars, measure, and cut them to the height needed to slide under the roof (appx 2.75″ long).

A 9″ x 0.5Flat Rectangle piece will be needed so measure how long your front porch area is (appx 2.75″ long). It should be a little more than half the length of the porch.


For the bay window, measure three equal lengths from your third flat long board–mine is 1.25 inches–one for the front wall and two for the diagonal walls.

Cut the long flat board to that measurement (1.25 inches) lengthwise. Slice that piece into three. These are the same height as the porch pillars (2.75″).

Draw out where you want your windows to be and use the 5″ x 3/16ths” x 1/8th Small Flat Pieces to create the window casings. Each wall of the bay window gets one window and the front porch also gets a window.

Finishing up the Roof

Decide how high you want your gable and cut two pieces from a flat long board. I had to make a notch in one side to accommodate the other roof.

Use a flat long board to create the center of the gable. Cut out the triangle and glue in a window just like before, but a bit smaller.

Take a piece of scrap board and create a support to attach the front of the gable to the background board.

Glue everything down!

Complete the gable with a little trimming. Use the leftovers from your flat rectangle piece and slice out diagonals on the ends and score it in the middle. Glue it down as shown in the photo.

Extend the roof to the right side of the gable by using a piece of the triangular pillar and cutting it at an angle.

Use another piece of the triangular pillar to create a wedge to connect the other side of the gable with the roof on the left side. You’ll see in the next pictures to come. Unless you’ve cut your roof to fit the gable and not vice versa like me...

The dormer is pretty small compared to the gable. Add your window before cutting.

Take a bit of a flat long board and cut away the two top edges to create a triangle. Create a support that attaches it to the background board just like the gable front.

Cut out two triangles and two squares from a flat long board to create the sides and roof for the dormer.

Glue it down!

Final Pieces

Create a door frame just like the windows but without the bottom piece.

Add a chimney piece that is cut from a rectangular flat piece.

Use wood fill to fill in any unwanted gaps.


Start painting the house!

First, get the chimney and window reflections done, To get a sheen, dab a bit of white and rub it around with your finger. A little goes a long way!

Follow up with white for the casing and purple inside for the windows.

Pale pink for the porch area, yellow-green for the bay window.

Periwinkle for the siding behind the porch pillars.

Orange-yellow for the dormer.

Pale yellow for the gable.

The roof is dark blue and the trimming is blue-grey.

Use appropriate colored color pencils to draw on the details. The fish scale pattern is only found on the gable and on the roof where it alternates with a regular siding pattern.

Start your background with a light blue. Be careful around the house!

Add a few clouds and begin your balloons with opaque circles of many colors.

Keep layering circles. The upper layers should be semi-transparent. Some balloons should taper in towards the chimney.

Add dots of white to create shine to your balloons.

For greater shine, dot more white and use your finger to spread it around on each balloon. This is a very small amount of paint and you might want to mix in some water with it.

Use a black pen to add depth and edges to some balloons. Avoid drawing solid lines.

Draw thin black dashed lines connecting the balloons to the chimney. It doesn’t have to connect each balloon, just to get the general idea.

Use white paint or white gel pen to fill in some of the gaps of the black strings so it appears like the sun is hitting the strings.

You made it!

Congrats and thank you for following along with this project! You can definitely make this project your own, make it a different size, different materials. I love this house from “Up” so much. It’s so colorful and full of adventure! I wanted to make this to put next to my books. Adventure is out there in the world, but it’s also in pages as well!

Thanks if you made it all the way down here! While I’ve got you, please like and share this if it peaked your interest. Follow us on Instagram and Pinterest and please please please share with your Disney DIY loving friends and family. We’d really appreciate it!

All images on this website were taken by and belong to Main Street D.I.Y. If you wish to share an image, please give credit where credit is due! Send the people our way!